January ▪ February ▪ March▪ April▪ May▪ SUMMER▪ September ▪ October▪ November▪ December

 

• Avoid heavy traffic on dormant lawns. Dry grass is easily broken and the crown of the plant may be severely damaged or killed.
• For easier lawn maintenance, eliminate acute angles in beds and borders. Combine single trees or shrubs into a large planting connected with ground covers.
• Don’t store your lawn spreader. Use it to spread sand or sawdust on drives and walkways.
• If you suspect mice or rabbits are eating your bulbs, cover the bed with small mesh chicken wire to deter their feasting.
• During winter thaws, water evergreens, especially those on the south and west sides of the house.
• To prevent dehydration of broadleaf evergreens, spray them with antidessicant. Make sure the temperature is above 40°F.
• Check perennials to see if any have been pushed out of the ground by alternate freezing and thawing weather. Firmly press down any that have lifted and cover with mulch.
• Remove tent caterpillar egg masses from fruit trees.
• When watering indoor plants, fill a container with tap water and allow the water to warm to room temperature before pouring on cold sensitive plants.
• Turn and prune houseplants regularly to keep them shapely. Pinch back new growth to promote bushiness.
• Check all house plants closely for insect infestations.
• Quarantine gift plants until you determine they aren’t harboring pests.
• To make economical ”sticky stakes” for trapping whiteflies and aphids, cut bright yellow cardboard or plastic, such as margarine tubs into strips. Coat with petroleum jelly. Insert them into the pots of infested plants. After you have caught your prey, throw them away.

• Take cuttings of geraniums to plant out in May or June. Clean pots and flats to be used for starting seeds.
• Have your lawn’s pH tested. Apply lime to the lawn if indicated by the test. Freezing and thawing will work the lime into the soil.
• Frost seed bare spots in the lawn.
• Use your grapevine prunings to create a wreath.
• Check trees and shrubs for bagworms. Remove them. Bagworms look somewhat like a pine cone hanging at the end of branches.
• When choosing plants for the landscape, remember that plants that are suited to your soil and climate will be more resistant to problems. If you want to experiment with exotics, be prepared to give them more care.
• Late winter is the time to prune many deciduous trees. Look over your plants now and remove dead, dying, unsightly parts of the tree, sprouts growing at the base of the tree trunk, crossed branches, and v-shaped crotches.
• Pot up a few clumps of crocuses from the garden as they emerge. In a sunny spot indoors, they will  develop blooms sooner than they will outside.
• Check stored bulbs, tubers, and corms. Discard any that are soft or diseased.
• Give your houseplants a shower. Dust build-up on leaves can impede transpiration.
• Never fertilize a plant in dry soil; thoroughly water the plant first to prevent damaging the roots.
• Start slow developing flowers such as alyssum, coleus, dusty miller, geranium, impatiens, phlox, vinca, and verbena in February.
• Don’t start your vegetable plants indoors too early. Six weeks ahead of the expected planting date is early enough for the fast growth species such as cabbage. Eight weeks allows enough time for the slower growing types such as peppers.
• Don’t throw out leek roots, replant them . In 60-90 days you can harvest them again. You can even use the roots of leeks bought at the grocery store, giving you two leeks for the price of one.

• Repot houseplants that have grown too large for their containers. Cut back leggy plants to encourage compact growth.
• Houseplants can be watered more frequently with the onset of spring and new growth.
• Start tomato seeds now. Keep them warm (72’ F) until they germinate.
• Before working an area in the garden for early spring planting, check the soil. It should be dry enough to crumble in your hand before you work it.
• Gardening in raised beds improves drainage and gives an earlier start in areas with cold, wet soil.
• Crop rotation isn’t just for farmers. Changing locations every year can help prevent some diseases from occurring, especially in the nightshade family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants). Not only will this help reduce pest problems, but the soil nutrient balance will have a chance to recover. Different families of plants deplete the soil of different nutrients.
• Have your soil tested. Vegetable plants grow best in soil of pH 6.0 to 6.5. .
• Finish pruning trees and shrubs. Don’t leave stubs when pruning; stubs usually die and are entry points for decay fungus. Trees that bleed, such as birch or maple, should not be pruned until after their leaves are fully developed.
• Don’t buy more chemicals than you can use in a season. Dispose of aged or no longer used chemicals according to local regulations. Do not pour them down the drain or on the ground, as they can pollute the water system, damage the soil, or injure you if you come into contact with them.
• Keep off soft and soggy lawns. Lime spreaders, wheelbarrows and other equipment will leave compaction marks.
• Begin removing winter mulch from perennials.
• Ornamental grasses can be pruned now to get them in shape for spring. Overcrowded clumps can be divided and replanted.

• Fertilize evergreens.
• Check ornamentals for spider mites.
• Easter Lilies need bright, indirect light and moist soil. After blooming, they can be planted in a sunny spot after danger of frost is over, but don’t plant them near other lilies. Easter lilies carry a virus that can infect other lilies.
• Indoors, sow seeds of impatiens. Keep at 72’F until seeds sprout.
• Prune and fertilize old roses. Plant new rose bushes.
• Destroy gypsy moth egg masses. They are brown fuzzy masses on tree bark.
• Prune spring-flowering shrubs after flowering is completed.
• Outside plant parsley, chives, beets, lettuce, spinach, radishes, and carrots. When iris leaves 0appear weak and thin, check for borers. These grub-like insects can ruin the plant if not detected early.
• Apply pre-emergent crabgrass control in mid April.
• Seed new lawns. Reseed bare spots. Do not mow the grass until at least 4” tall. The roots are being renewed in the spring and grass needs vigorous top growth initially.
• The first grass clippings are rich in nutrients and contain fewer weed seeds than those collected later. Put them in the compost pile, use a mulching mower, or mow frequently and leave them on the ground.
• Overgrown summer and fall perennials can be dug, divided, and transplanted.

• Prune early-flowering shrubs such as forsythia ,weigela, lilac and spiraea after blooming.
• Don’t be too anxious to move houseplants outdoors. Even a good chill can knock the leaves off tender plants.
• Move your houseplants outdoors when night temperatures stay above 50’F. Move the plants to a shady location first, then you may proceed to move them gradually into more light to prevent burning the foliage.
• Vegetable and annual seedlings may be planted outdoors May 20-30. Don’t forget to harden them off first.
• When transplanting seedlings in peat pots into the garden, do not allow the pot to protrude above the soil level. It will act as a wick and draw moisture away from the transplant.
• Time to control birch leaf miner
• Rhododendrons can be pruned right after bloom.
• Check for bagworm on evergreens.
• Fertilize azaleas immediately after bloom.
• Plant ground covers under shade trees that don’t allow enough sunlight to sustain grass. Periwinkle, English ivy, and liriope are a few ground cover plants that grow well in shade.
• Most evergreens have many roots near the soil surface. Avoid deep cultivation that might wound roots.
• Watering with drip irrigation or soaker hoses will reduce the spread of black spot in roses.
• Stay out of the garden when foliage is wet. Walking through a wet garden spreads disease from one plant to another.
• Fertilize your lawn now. Watch your lawn for smut and leafspot.
• Work lime into the soil around hydrangea to produce pink flowers or aluminum sulphate for blue.

• If you mow when the ground is wet, the mower wheels can damage a new lawn. Mow grass to 2 1/2to 3 inches. Don’t cut more than 1/3 of leaf length at one cutting. Leave short clippings on the lawn. They will add nitrogen to the soil as they decompose.
• When trimming with a weed whacker, be careful around trees and shrubs. Bark can be easily damaged opening the tree to insect and disease problems.
• Check for chinch bugs in the lawn.
• Use Bt to control cabbage worms.
• Spray fruit trees.
• Tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings can be planted now.
• Bitter cucumbers can be avoided by keeping the crop well mulched and watered regularly.
• Save leftover packs of seeds by putting them in an air-tight container with a small amount of powdered milk (to absorb moisture) and placing them in the refrigerator.
• Use pliers to pull up woodyseedlings and weeds. Grip the stem at the soil line, twist itaround the pliers and pull straight up.
• Watering deeply the day beforepulling up the weeds will make the job easier.
• Watch for and control black spotand powdery mildew on rose foliage.
• Houseplants in containers without drainage holes are poor candidates for outside. A rainstorm may drown and rot them. All plants perform better in containers with drainage holes.
• Vacation hint: Sink houseplants, pots and all, in the soil in a shady area of the garden. Mulch to reduce the need for frequent watering.
• Avoid using peat as a mulch. It tends to form a tight mat, virtually impermeable to light rain once it becomes dry. It is best mixed in with soil as a conditioner.
• Plant bush beans every two weeks until late July.

• Fertilize the lawn Labor Day weekend, if needed. Don’t retire your lawn mower yet. The lawn is still growing. As long as it grows it needs to be mowed.
• Early fall is a good time to apply broadleaf weed killers. Be sure to follow all the label directions.
• Be sure to clean the windows where plants will be this winter while the plants are still outside. The difference in light availability will be significant.
• Bring houseplants that we removed outside for the summer back indoors before night temperatures drop below 55’F. Gradually decrease the amount of light to acclimate the plants and prevent leaf drop.
• Be sure to control insects and diseases before putting them near other houseplants.
• Remove diseased plants from the garden and destroy them.
• Pot up or take cuttings from herbs now. Extend their growing season indoors.
• Plant spring flowering bulbs in late September. Planting too early can cause bulbs to sprout top growth before winter.
• Transplant or divide peonies, daylillies, iris, and phlox late in the month.
• Lift tender bulbs (canna, dahlia, gladiolus) after the first freeze. Let them dry out for about one week before storing them.
• Keep trees and shrubs, especially newly planted stock, well watered until the ground freezes.
• Reseed bare spots or new lawns using good quality seed mixture.

• Continue watering fall-planted trees, shrubs and perennials. The roots will continue to grow until the soil temperature drops to about 40 F.
• Rake leaves as they fall. Shred them and use as a winter mulch or start a compost pile.
• Do not become alarmed if your yews, pines, arborvitae, and junipers begin to shed their interior needles. It is natural for them to do so at this time of year .
• Complete planting of spring bulbs.
• Don’t leave a thick layer of mulch over your vegetable garden in the winter or it will take along time for the soil to dry out and warm up in the spring.
• lace a ripe apple in a closed container with green tomatoes to encourage the tomatoes to turn red. Ripe apples give off ethylene gas that causes tomatoes to ripen.
• Dig up summer flowering bulbs such as dahlias, gladioli and cannas before the ground freezes and store in a cool, dry and dark space.
• Fall is an excellent time for taking soil samples in the lawn and in the garden. Pick up a soil test kit at RCE.
• Christmas cacti need special care now to produce flowers in December. Buds will form when temperatures are between 50° and 60° or if the plant is exposed to at least 13 hours of complete darkness every day.
• House plant growth slows as the days get shorter and light intensity is reduced. Do not fertilize them until next spring.
• To keep your cat out of your potted plants, sprinkle the soil with pepper. It works without harming either cat or plants.
• Clean up perennial beds.

• Stock up on birdseed for winter.
• Cut back iris foliage to prevent iris borer problems.
• Rake remaining leaves for backyard leaf composting.
• Drain garden hoses and store properly.
• Till your garden. It’s a good time to apply organic compost.
• Clean metal parts of your garden tools
   with oil and treat wooden parts with linseed oil.
• Remove gasoline from outdoor tools - lawnmowers, chainsaws, etc.
• Remove and get rid of dead and diseased plant parts from your flower beds and vegetable garden. Damaged parts, if not infected, may be composted.
• Mulches applied too early do more harm that good. A mulch is used to keep soil temperature constant and prevent frost heaving, not to keep it warm. It is best not to mulch until the soil temperature has reached 32’</li>
• Fertilize the lawn now rather than in early spring. It’s good for root growth, reduces clippings and fungus problems.
• Make a centerpiece for your table. Be thankful. Count your blessings.
• If you are planning to buy alive Christmas tree, balled and burlapped, dig a hole now, fill it with straw, and keep the soil in the garage until planting.
• Store liquid pesticides where they won’t freeze.
• Protect fruit trees from mice with wire guards.
• Review your subscriptions to horticultural magazines.
• Holiday gift for a garden friend- a book or subscription? It’s a good time to order.
• Take cuttings from the yard for Holiday decorations
• Plant narcissus bulbs for holiday gifts.
• Tree service firms are not so busy now. Check for reduced rates if your trees need pruning.

• Minimize foot traffic on a frozen lawn to reduce winter damage.
• Check tubers and corms in storage. If they are sprouting, put them in a cooler spot. If they are  shriveling, rewrap in paper bags with peat moss or sawdust. Moldy or damaged roots should be discarded.
• Protect trunks of trees, particularly fruit trees, from hungry mice and rabbits with quarter inch hardware cloth.  To discourage insects from hatching when nuts, seed pods, and cones are brought in for holiday arrangements, place them in the oven on the lowest setting for an hour.
• Some of the potted plants you receive during the holiday season are not meant to be kept as permanent houseplants. They were raised in a greenhouse and do not adapt well to home conditions. Treat them like cut flowers, enjoy them as long as possible, but discard them when they become unattractive.
• Watch out for spider mites on houseplants. They thrive in dry air . Isolate the infested plant. Wash it with plain water. If this fails, use the appropriate insecticide. Follow the instructions on the label.
• Rotate houseplants in dim locations to sunny spots to keep them in prime condition.
• Save cardboard cylinders from holiday wrapping paper for making biodegradable cutworm collars. In the spring cut the cylinders into 3" sections to fit around your transplants.
• Try coating your snow shovel with a “no-stick” cooking spray; the snow slides right off. Re-coat as needed.
• As with all living things, plants have a life span and eventually will need to be replaced.